Figure Eight on a Bight: The Bomber Loop Knot

Why This Knot Is Different

The figure eight on a bight is the standard load-bearing loop knot in technical rescue and climbing for a reason: it is the most reliable. It does not capsize under shock load. It is easy to inspect visually — an incorrectly tied figure eight looks wrong, and a trained eye catches the mistake before loading. The bowline requires more experience to recognize when it's tied incorrectly.

The tradeoff is that it can be difficult to untie after being heavily loaded. For one-time-use anchors or where you expect to untie frequently under light loads, a bowline is more practical. For any life-safety or heavy load application, use the figure eight.

Uses

• Tying into a climbing harness (when using the trace-through method)
• Creating an anchor loop on the end of a rescue line
• Attaching a rope to a carabiner when the carabiner cannot open large enough for the bowline's loop
• Any fixed loop that will bear a human load

The Trace-Through Method

When you cannot feed the end of a rope through a harness tie-in point or when you need to attach to an existing anchor, use the trace-through:

1. Tie a single figure eight partway along the rope
2. Pass the free end through the harness or anchor
3. Trace the path of the original figure eight in reverse, following every strand
4. The result is a double figure eight with all strands parallel

This creates an equally strong knot with no free loop requirement. Both the straight figure eight on a bight and the trace-through are approved for life-safety use when correctly dressed.