Why You Need to Do the Math
The most common off-grid power mistake is buying panels and batteries without calculating what you actually need. The result is either a system that runs out at 7 PM or an expensive over-build.
The math is not complicated. It takes 30 minutes to do correctly and determines whether your $2,000 power system lasts the winter or fails in week three.
Step 1: Calculate Your Daily Load (Watt-Hours)
List every device you plan to run, its wattage, and daily hours of use.
Example: Minimal Prepper Power System
| Device | Watts | Hours/Day | Watt-Hours/Day | |--------|-------|-----------|----------------| | LED lighting (4 bulbs × 8W) | 32W | 4 hours | 128 Wh | | Radio/communications | 20W | 3 hours | 60 Wh | | Phone charging (2 phones) | 20W | 2 hours | 40 Wh | | Small laptop or tablet | 45W | 3 hours | 135 Wh | | Refrigerator (efficiency model) | 100W avg | 24 hours | 2,400 Wh | | CPAP (if applicable) | 30W | 8 hours | 240 Wh |
Without refrigerator total: 363 Wh/day With refrigerator total: 2,763 Wh/day
This is why the refrigerator changes everything. A chest freezer or efficient 12V DC refrigerator (EcoFlow, Alpicool) runs on 20-40W continuous versus 100W+ for a household unit.
Add 20% for inverter efficiency losses (DC to AC conversion): multiply by 1.2.
Minimal system (no fridge): 363 × 1.2 = 435 Wh/day
Step 2: Size the Battery Bank
Determine days of autonomy: how many days without sun can your system support? For a primary preparedness system: 2-3 days minimum, 5 days for serious resilience.
Formula: Battery Bank (Wh) = Daily Load (Wh) × Days of Autonomy ÷ Maximum Depth of Discharge
For minimal system, 3-day autonomy, LiFePO4 (80% DoD): Battery Bank = 435 Wh × 3 ÷ 0.8 = 1,631 Wh
At 12V nominal voltage: 1,631 Wh ÷ 12V = 136 Ah battery bank → Round to 150Ah LiFePO4
For minimal system, 3-day autonomy, Lead-Acid (50% DoD): Battery Bank = 435 × 3 ÷ 0.5 = 2,610 Wh = 218 Ah at 12V → The lead-acid bank needs to be significantly larger for the same usable capacity.
Battery Types Compared
| Type | Usable DoD | Cycle Life | Cost per Wh | Notes | |------|-----------|-----------|-------------|-------| | Flooded lead-acid | 50% | 300-500 | $0.10-0.20 | Requires maintenance, vents gas | | AGM lead-acid | 50% | 400-600 | $0.20-0.35 | Sealed, no maintenance | | LiFePO4 | 80-90% | 2000-5000 | $0.40-0.80 | Best choice if budget allows |
Step 3: Size the Solar Array
Peak sun hours: The average number of hours per day at your location where solar irradiance equals 1,000 W/m². This varies by location and season. Conservative estimates:
| Location | Peak Sun Hours (Annual Average) | |----------|-------------------------------| | Pacific Northwest (Seattle) | 3.5 hours | | Desert Southwest (Phoenix) | 6.5 hours | | Midwest (Kansas City) | 4.5 hours | | Southeast (Atlanta) | 5.0 hours | | Northeast (Boston) | 4.0 hours |
Use your specific location value from NREL's PVWatts Calculator (pvwatts.nrel.gov). For winter sizing (worst case), use winter peak sun hours which may be 50-70% of annual average.
Formula: Solar Array (Watts) = Daily Load (Wh) ÷ Peak Sun Hours × System Efficiency Factor (0.85)
For minimal system in Midwest: Solar Array = 435 Wh ÷ 4.5 hours ÷ 0.85 = 114W → Round to 200W (provides margin for winter and panel degradation over time)
For winter sizing (assume 60% of annual = 2.7 peak sun hours): Solar Array = 435 ÷ 2.7 ÷ 0.85 = 190W → 200-250W covers winter adequately in the Midwest.
Step 4: Select a Charge Controller
A charge controller manages the flow of power from solar panels to the battery bank, preventing overcharging.
Two types:
- PWM (Pulse Width Modulation): Cheaper, adequate for small systems (under 400W), less efficient (approximately 70-80%)
- MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking): More expensive, 93-97% efficient, required for larger systems or mismatched panel/battery voltages
For a 200W array with a 12V battery bank, a 20-amp PWM controller works. For 400W+, MPPT is worth the premium.
Step 5: Size the Inverter (if using AC devices)
Inverter size = peak simultaneous AC load × 1.25 (safety margin)
For the minimal system with no refrigerator: lighting and phone charging can all run from 12V DC directly (no inverter needed). A laptop requires AC or a 12V-specific power supply.
If running a 12V-compatible system throughout: no inverter needed, eliminates 15-20% efficiency loss.
Complete System Example: Minimal Grid-Down Power
Goal: Lights, radio, phone charging, laptop for 3 days without sun.
| Component | Specification | Approximate Cost | |-----------|-------------|-----------------| | Solar panels | 2 × 100W (200W total) | $150-200 | | Battery | 150Ah LiFePO4, 12V | $350-500 | | MPPT charge controller | 20A Victron or Renogy | $80-150 | | 400W pure sine inverter | Renogy or Victron | $80-120 | | Wiring, fuses, connectors | Various | $50-100 | | Total | | $710-1,070 |
This system runs the minimal load list above (no refrigerator) for 3 days with no sun input, then recharges to full in approximately 1.5 days of good sun.
Sources
Frequently Asked Questions
What is depth of discharge (DoD) and why does it matter?
Depth of discharge is the percentage of battery capacity you use before recharging. Lead-acid batteries should not be discharged below 50% DoD — repeatedly going below 50% dramatically shortens their lifespan. LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) batteries can be safely discharged to 80-90% DoD. This means a 100Ah LiFePO4 gives you 80-90Ah of usable capacity versus 50Ah for a lead-acid.
How many solar panels do I need for a specific battery bank?
The rule of thumb: your solar array should be able to recharge your battery bank in 4-6 hours of peak sun. A 200Ah LiFePO4 bank needing 160Ah replenished in 5 hours requires 160 / 5 = 32 amps at 12V = 384W minimum of solar. Round up to 400W.
What is the difference between LiFePO4 and lead-acid batteries?
LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate): more usable capacity (80-90% DoD), longer lifespan (2,000-5,000 cycles vs 300-500 for lead-acid), lighter weight, faster charging. Higher upfront cost. Lead-acid (AGM, flooded): lower upfront cost, widely available, tolerates abuse better. For serious prepping, LiFePO4 is the right choice if budget allows.